Hadongkwan: A Review of Seoul's Gomtang Legacy Since 1939

In the bustling streets of Seoul, especially in the area around Jongno, food is more than just sustenance; it’s an experience steeped in history and culture. Among the many eateries that dot this vibrant neighbourhood, Hadongkwan stands out for its gomtang, a traditional oxtail soup, which has been served since 1939. With a legacy spanning decades, I wanted to see if the food still holds its reputation in the modern dining scene.

The Atmosphere of Hadongkwan

As I stepped into Hadongkwan, the first thing that struck me was the simple, no-frills decor. The restaurant has retained its classic charm, with wooden tables and old photos hanging on the walls that hint at its long history. Despite its age, the space feels welcoming rather than dated, attracting both locals and tourists who appreciate a taste of authentic Korean cuisine.

What Is Gomtang?

For those unfamiliar, gomtang is a hearty soup made from simmered oxtail and bones, resulting in a rich broth that's often served with rice. It’s a comfort dish that embodies the essence of Korean home cooking. Hadongkwan’s gomtang is known for its clear, clean taste, which I was eager to experience.

What I Ordered

I opted for the classic gomtang, priced at 9,000 won (approximately $7.50), and a side of kimchi, which is a staple in any Korean meal. The menu also offers a variety of side dishes, but I wanted to focus on the soup itself.

The Taste Test

As the soup was placed before me, the first thing I noticed was the rich aroma. A bowl of gomtang typically comes with a generous serving of tender oxtail and a sprinkle of green onions. With the first sip, the broth was deeply flavourful, with a satisfying umami depth that only comes from long hours of simmering. The oxtail was tender, and the meat practically fell off the bone.

Flavours and Accompaniments

What I appreciated most was the balance of flavours. The broth is seasoned simply with salt and pepper, allowing the natural taste of the oxtail to shine without being overwhelmed by additional spices. I found it refreshing that Hadongkwan doesn’t rely heavily on additives; the quality of the ingredients speaks for itself.

As for the kimchi, it was tangy and had just the right amount of spice, making it an excellent complement to the rich soup. I also noticed a small dish of garlic and fermented shrimp paste on the table, which some diners use to enhance their soup further. I tried it, and while it added an interesting kick, I preferred the soup in its pure form.

Value for Money

At 9,000 won (around $7.50), the price for gomtang feels fair given the quality and serving size. You certainly get your money's worth in both flavour and satisfaction. It’s a dish that fills you up without feeling heavy, making it a solid option for any meal of the day.

The Crowds and Service

During my visit, I noticed a mix of locals and tourists, which is a good sign for any restaurant. The turnover was brisk, but the staff managed to keep things running smoothly. They were prompt, polite, and seemed knowledgeable about the menu, which is always a plus in my book.

Is Hadongkwan Overrated?

In a city like Seoul, where new trends often overshadow traditional establishments, it’s easy for places like Hadongkwan to be seen as overrated. However, my experience suggests that there’s more than mere hype at play here. The consistency of their gomtang since 1939 speaks volumes about their commitment to quality. While not every dining experience can meet such standards, Hadongkwan still holds its own in a competitive culinary landscape.

Final Thoughts

Hadongkwan is a testament to the charm of traditional Korean cooking. The gomtang is a delightful representation of what Korean cuisine can offer — simple yet sophisticated, comforting yet invigorating. If you find yourself in Jongno, particularly on a chilly day, this restaurant is worth a visit for its iconic gomtang.

Next, I plan to explore some lesser-known restaurants in Yeonnam-dong that are making waves with their innovative takes on classic Korean dishes.